Landscaping Fun

By Bruce Tucker

 Vermicompost is the end result of organic material such as food waste after it has been digested by some species of earth worm. Commonly referred to as worm castings, vermicompost contains water soluble nutrients and bacteria that make a great organic fertilizer for your garden.

The process in which you feed a worm organic material and turn it into vermicompost has an actual name called vermicomposting.

Although every worm produces worm castings, the worm best for the job to produce quality vermicompost for your gardens soil is called Eisenia foetida or the red wiggler earthworm. Most of North America will use this species of worm, but if you live in a tropical part of the world, look towards Perionyx excavatus (Blue worms) and if you have a more acidic soil then use Eisenia hortensis (night crawlers).

Vermicompost can be used to brew compost tea, a rich elixir that is sprayed on the plants leaves and stem as well as added to the soil so the roots of your vegetables can absorb the teas nutrients, and vermicompost can be mixed directly in with your soil.

You can buy vermicompost at many nurseries or garden centers, but you can actually make your own with a box, some worms, and a little water and some time.

The easiest way to make your own is to buy a large plastic or rubber container (similar to one you would store household items in), drill holes in the lid, and the sides for air ventilation, and drill holes in the bottom for water drainage. Then put down two inches of shredded newspaper, followed by shredded leaves, grass clippings (in limited quantities) and your food left scraps followed by another two inches of shredded newspaper.

To get some worms just look on your sidewalks or in the street after a heavy rainfall. They will be crawling everywhere. Their homes get flooded and they go to higher ground where it is wet but more tolerable.

You simply put the worms on top of your shredded newspaper and put the lid on. The worms will work their way down through the newspaper and find the food waste. It is very important that you keep the contents of your bin moist. Worms need a moist environment in order to thrive. A simple misting of the contents of the bin on a daily basis should suffice. As a side note, place something underneath the bin to catch any water drainage. Any moisture you capture you should then be dumped back into the bin.

You will know when it is time to retrieve and harvest your vermicompost by simply seeing that very little or no food scraps remain. There are a couple of ways to harvest the vermicompost. The first way is to dump the entire contents out, and remove the worms by hand. The second way is to divide your rubber container in half initially by only placing food scraps on one side of the container. Then when it is time to harvest the vermicompost you add food scraps to the other side. When you do this the worms will move to the side where there is food leaving you with a near wormless side of quality vermicompost.

Vermicompost is a great way to add much needed nutrients to your gardens soil and the best part is you can do make it right in your own backyard all year round.

About the Author
Bruce is the co-author of the book Vegetable Gardening for the Average Person. It is a practical easy to follow book that teaches gardeners everything from composting techniques, aeration and frost conditions, to choosing the right tools and picking the right seeds. To learn more about Mr. Tucker you can visit: AveragePersonGardening.com.

Gardening

landscaping

By Jude Simons

 A good drink is what even Gods enjoy and to most a good wine is the best drink in the world. The connoisseurs of wine say that to find out a good wine is to smell and taste it. Not is the case with the wine racks. It is much harder a task than that for you get to know the insulation, humidity and temperature that your wine needs besides the ambience that your wine drinker needs and lot other things.

Because of the specific requirements of the wines in terms of the humidity, etc the wine racks can be only few types in the texture although they may vary in terms of the design, the space they tae and the number of wine bottles they can hold.

For building your own wine rack the first thing that you should be sure of is that whether your walls have sufficient insulation otherwise you will lose nearly all of your good wine. A good insulation ranges from R11 to R19 depending the outer temperature, as basement cellars may need more insulation. After having an optimum insulation the next thing you should consider for building your own rack is the material. The options available are redwood, lattice, country pine and mahogany. Redwood offers a soothing look to the bar while the country pine allows an artistic environment. You can also have metal ones but they require extra care and not much can be offered in terms of designs.

For each bottle there should be a 4 to 6 inch breathing space that will help in not only easy accessibility but also for cleaning purposes. You shouldn’t forget to keep the width of the rack at least 2 inch more than the length of the wine bottle although we advise around 15 inch for a single racking. There are many designs and most of them in different geometrical patterns but the best out of them is the rectangular one which is quite safe.

If you are thinking over some color, although it all depends upon the color of the walls and other surroundings, we recommend the dark ones. They give a more romantic and elegant look. Redwood and the mahogany generally do not need to be painted.

There are certain precautions that need to be considered. There should be no electrical installations where you are preparing to have your wine rack. The lighting system at the ceiling is called the can lighting and it should be around 15 inch from the wall for a single deep racking and around 28 to 30 inch for double deep racking. The doors and the windows of the bar should be properly installed so that they maintain insulation of inside from outside. The rack should not interfere with the door, window or any type of switch.

Besides the above ones there are certain racks called as counter top racks meant for a few bottles ranging from 1 to 12 and generally they are suited for a small gathering and are best kept on a table. Similarly there are certain racks which are rightly called hanging racks for they hang to the ceiling or the wall and they serve the purpose of both a show piece and a functional small rack.

Visit the Planet Facts website to look at planet pictures and pictures of planets.

Gardening

landscaping ideas

By Jude Simons

 Perhaps nothing is better known as a staple of Cajun cuisine than gumbo, a spicy, hearty stew or soup whose name literally means “okra”. Called one of the greatest contributions of Louisiana Cajun kitchens to American cuisine, it came to that state with the first French settlers, who loved bouillabaisse, a highly seasoned French stew. Unable to find their usual ingredients to make bouillabaisse, they substituted local ingredients such as shrimp, fish, and okra. After a century mixing with Spanish, African, and native cuisine in the region, the step was no longer recognizable as its French precursor and was instead something completely new - gumbo.

Still extremely common in Louisiana, gumbo is also found all along the Gulf of Mexico, and is often eaten in the cooler months, when the extended cooking required to make the usually large batches of the dish will not heat up the room to uncomfortable levels.

Gumbo consists of two main components - rice and broth. The two are mixed together only for serving, and while new rice must be prepared daily, broth can be frozen and saved for future consumption.

Rice for gumbo is usually white or parboiled rice steamed or boiled with salt or a touch of white vinegar for flavor. There is some dispute over the proper ratio of rice to gumbo - “damp rice,” for those who like a lot of rice with their broth, and, on the opposite extreme, only a modicum of rice. In some areas, it is also common to add potato salad to the gumbo, either with or without rice.

The broth comes in several varieties. One of the most common is seafood, containing crab, oysters and/or shrimp. Equally common is chicken gumbo with the Cajun sausage called audouille. There is also duck and oyster gumbo, as well as a variety of gumbos made with other fowl, such as quail or turkey. Rabbit can be used for gumbo, as can the Cajun smoked pork known as tasso. Gumbo z’herbes (from the French gumbo aux herbes), gumbo of smothered greens thickened with roux, also exists, and was commonly eaten during Lent, when meat was traditionally forbidden by the Church.

Gumbo was originally made with okra, and some, especially in Southeast Louisiana would argue that anything made without okra can not rightly be called gumbo. Okra gumbos usually feature lighter meats, such as chicken or shrimp, and the okra is cut into pieces and simmered in the pot along with the meat and the three spices that form the so-called “Holy Trinity” of Cajun cooking - onion, celery, and bell pepper. Other spices, and rarely processed meats such as sausage, are then added to the mix. Contrary to popular belief, it is frowned upon for a chef to make Cajun cooking overly hot or peppery - these are left to the diners themselves if they wish to add more spices later.

Gumbo can also be made with a roux base, which has a much stronger taste and takes any sort of meat. Roux by itself is often very dark, though it can be combined with okra to make a lighter stock. Fil, a powder made of dried and ground sassafras, can also be used as a base for gumbo, though it is never, under any circumstances, combined with okra. Originally, it was used as a substitute when okra was not in season. In modern times, it is commonly added as a powder to a roux based gumbo.

Regardless of its base and history, gumbo remains a tasty staple of Cajun cooking.

Want to look at tree pictures and pictures of trees? Watch them at the Tree Facts website.

Gardening

landscaping ideas

By Bruce Tucker

 The definition of Organic Foods means that these foods are either grown or made per a set of criteria or standards and before they can be called organic they must obtain an organic certification.

In order to achieve the organic certification the foods must void of most synthetic chemical inputs such as fertilizer, pesticides, antibiotics (in regards to live stock), any food additives and so on. The farmland that has produced the food must have been free of any chemical inputs for a minimum of three years. The grower of the food must keep a written detail account of production and sales records. Certified organic products must be kept separated from those products that have not been certified and periodically the site growing the organic food will be inspected.

In some countries certification of organic foods is a strict process overseen by that countries government. But here in the United States the certification can be handled by third party companies whose sole purpose is to certify growers (or manufacturers) of organic products.

Since we are specifically talking about growing foods organically in this article you would fall under the realm of farming. In order to be considered an organic farmer you must study organic standards, make sure the area in which you will be farming the crops is in complete compliance with organic standards, obtain an on-site inspection along with passing an oral interview and of course the annual fee to keep the organic certification which can run anywhere from $400 to $2000 depending on the size of the operation. All agencies that hand out that hand the certifications must first be approved by the United States Department of Agriculture.

The term certified organic is protected by legislation here in the United States so that the consumer purchasing a product for the sole purpose of it being organic is kept safe. In other words, it is to prevent manufacturers from misusing the term certified organic to deceive the public.

There are three levels of organic rating in the United States. The top level says that the products have been certified therefore the manufacturer of that product can use the term certified organic. The second level says that the products being manufactured have used at least 95% organic ingredients therefore can put the organic label on their products. The third level of which at least 70% organic ingredients were used can only use the seal made with organic ingredients. Anything less than 70% can not use the term organic anywhere on their labeling.

As you can see becoming an organic gardener, a certified one that is, can be a lot of work. However, if you truly believe in going organic and growing your vegetables and fruit in this manner then the work will be well worth it for you.

About the Author
Bruce is the co-author of the book Vegetable Gardening for the Average Person. It is a practical easy to follow book that teaches gardeners everything from composting techniques, aeration and frost conditions, to choosing the right tools and picking the right seeds. To learn more about Mr. Tucker you can visit: AveragePersonGardening.com.

Gardening

garden landscaping

By Atlanta Landscaping

 If you have a sizeable area around your house that is devoid of any greenery, you should seriously consider developing a garden there to beautify your home and make it look attractive. You should hire a landscape designing company to do the job for you instead of trying out some random landscaping scheme by yourself. There are many innovative garden design ideas that can be implemented successfully by engaging such companies to do up your lawn. The most popular design theme is to make your garden and lawn look like the environment of some exotic outdoors location that you fancy.

Landscape services are not just about moving a few potted plants about your front yard or garden. An established landscape company will offer you a bouquet of services like drainage management, lawn care and of course landscaping services. The landscape company will take care of little things such as allowing enough space for all the trees and shrubs to grow properly. They will also prune the trees so that the branches do not grow in a haphazard manner. They may also recommend planting fruit bearing trees after examining the chemical composition of the soil in your lawn.

One of the important services that your landscape company will offer you is irrigation management. There are two separate components to this: irrigation design and installation of the system. The design aspect will let you know how much water is required and the places within your garden where it is required. The main job of the irrigation installation team is to fix the system aesthetically so that your garden does not have visible pipes and other irrigation equipment. The other important service that your landscape company will give you is in the field of plant healthcare. Plants are affected by all kinds of pests and they may ruin a perfect looking garden within a short time. What you would want to do is to identify and destroy these pests early on so that your pants continue to flourish and bloom.

Some landscape maintenance companies have specialized outdoor lighting services. If you have a good lawn you may as well use it for a pool party or for an intimate cookout with your family. Outdoor lighting has to be soft and the lights have to be placed in the correct spots so that the entire area can be illuminated easily. Once you have got your lawn all done up according to the advice of a landscape company, do not forget to sign up for a lawn care maintenance program with them. The irrigation systems, outdoor lighting all will require periodic care and will not function well if they are not maintained properly. It would be a tedious job for you to do all the maintenance work yourself. This is why I recommend that you sign up for the professional maintenance program offered by these companies. This will ensure that your lawn and garden keep looking good for many years to come.

Jacobs Landscape Company is author of this article on Atlanta Landscaping Services.

Find more information about Atlanta Landscape Company here.

Gardening

landscaping

By Josef Tate

 This is the story about a mistake I made in my new garden that for me at the time, was about as devastating as it could get. The remarkable thing about it was as time went on I was nearly glad that I’d made that mistake.

When we shifted into our new house in Melbourne at the end of 2005 I was pretty excited as what I had to start with was a clean slate which meant careful planning and the opportunity to fill my new garden with all the types of plants that I really loved. For me Australian native plants were one of my passions as well as the protea family from South Africa. Basically, any member of the proteaceae family are the plants that I love the most.

The plan with the backyard was to excavate an area in the middle with the intention of having a sunken lawn with raised garden beds about 3m wide in between the lawn and the fence. The idea had always appealed to me as I like to add a little bit of interest in the way things are landscaped.

Firstly the excavations from the lawn area were removed and then piled around the fence area for the raised garden beds. This would be ideal as most proteaceae plants like good drainage and friable soil so the raised beds would be ideal. The only problem was, that excavations were hard dry brown clay. This was about as unsuitable as you could get for these types of plants.

Now the easy way out of this would have been to get the clay carted away and then get lots and lots of garden soil or even sandy loam in to replace it with. Not only would this be very expensive and time consuming but it also meant that Id be dumping my rubbish somewhere else and replacing it with somebody elses (in this case the environments) good quality soil.

The only option for me was to improve what I already had and turn it into something that the plants would be very happy to grow in. Not only was this very achievable but it would also mean less work for me, money saved and better for the environment. The plan was simple, get some gypsum and lots of good quality compost delivered, hire as large a cultivator that I thought I could hang onto and then just cultivate it all in together.

It was all very simple but the success of the whole project was to hinge on just one small factor………. getting the right compost. Now because the majority of the plants that were to go in my garden were proteaceae I knew that the compost had to be free of any phosphorus. This was important because as most gardeners know fertilizers with phosphorus will kill most plants from this family.

When I went to the garden center and inquired about the phosphorus I was told that they couldnt guarantee the compost didnt have phosphorus and they suggested that I use Eucy mulch. This consisted of shredded leaves and branches from Eucalyptus trees. This to me didnt seem like a good option at all as the mulch was far from being compost and was not suitable to bury under the ground as it was still going through the composting process. Neither of these options were suitable so I decided try another garden center. The next one I went to also had compost. I asked about the phosphorus and despite the sales person being unsure he did assure me that it was suitable for natives and there shouldnt be any problems.

I suppose I should have been skeptical at this response but the compost was very good quality and it was also the right price. At the end of the day I thought it was worth the risk as there werent really many other options. So based on all of that the project went ahead and by September of 2006 my garden beds were ready to be planted out with all my favorite plants.

The summer that followed was very dry and I kept my garden alive by hand watering and some of the plants actually started to grow. But by the time autumn started to roll around some of these also started to die. All of a sudden I started to get a bad feeling about what was happening. Most of the plants that were dying were proteaceae plants and the ones that were doing ok were mostly not. I was starting to accept that my worst fear was now starting to become a reality. There was some phosphorus in the compost. This was the worst outcome possible for me. This garden I was building was to be a place for me to show case the types of plants that I loved the most and to top it all off some of the plants that had perished were actually very rare and rarely seen in gardens and plant nurseries.

Anyway as time went on more and more plants slowly started to pass away and I replaced them with non proteaceae plants. But as time went on I also discovered something else. Not all of the proteaceae plants were actually dying. Some were actually doing ok. All of a sudden my mood went from despair and perseverance to relising there was an opportunity here to actually learn something.

All of a sudden I could start to document which proteaceae plants arent affected by phosphorus, which ones will barely tolerant it and which ones were killed by it. What the experts had been saying for years was not 100 of their leaves were either partially or completely blacken by the phosphorus. These would be the subjects of my experiment. I then drenched them with the liquid fertilizer solution and continued to do so every second month over winter until in spring they actually started to recover and put on new green growth. It was amazing, what I had been told appeared to be working and as of today about a year later those plants are all doing very well and showing no affects whatever of the phosphorus. That high nitrogen fertilizer actually worked. The next step will be retry some of the types of plants that died and see if I can get them to grow with the use of that fertilizer, but thats for further down the track.

As far as which plants died and which plants survived this is still a work in progress but I will make it the subject an article very soon. So please……… stay tuned!

The Rebel Gardener is a Blog about gardening drought tolerant garden plants. Read more on Phosphorus Toxicity in Proteaceae Garden Plants

Gardening

landscape

By suegold

 When most people think of organic gardening they think of gardening without the use of chemicals such as fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides. Although these are essential elements, organic gardening involves a lot more. Organic gardening in it’s broadest sense refers to a system of gardening in harmony with nature. The organic gardener tries to minimize the impact of his gardening efforts on the environment and natural systems.

Organic gardening is self sustaining and aims to leave the environment in the same state as it was found - avoiding depletion of resources and safeguarding the delicate balance that exists in nature. True organic gardening therefore considers the role that even the smallest micro organism has to play in the ecology of the garden and attempts to make use of resources present naturally in the environment rather than introduce external chemicals into the process. Selection of plants appropriate to the environment is therefore a vital part of organic gardening.

Whereas chemical based agriculture attempts to change the environment to suit the crop by using chemical additives and fertilizers etc. The organic approach is to best use the resources naturally available. Principles of organic gardening also involve crop rotation to prevent nutrient depletion. Constantly growing the same type of plant - that is plants which have the same or similar nutrient requirements could lead to severe depletion of these elements in the soil. Crop rotation by alternately growing plants with different nutrient requirements allows the soil to replenish its nutrient supplies and rejuvenate itself.

These concepts are very succinctly stated in the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movement’s Principles of Organic Agriculture as follows:

“The role of Organic Agriculture, whether in farming, processing, distribution or consumption is to sustain and enhance the health of the ecosystems and organisms from the smallest in the soil to human beings”.

Stated in this manner the objective of organic gardening and agriculture while laudable might seem rather unachievable. However, there are many practical and simple strategies that could promote this objective. These include:

Composting - rather than using chemicals and other artificial additives to boost soil nutrients the organic approach is through recycling of plant matter itself through composting.

Instead of using pesticides the organic gardener uses natural methods to control insects and other organisms. The emphasis is on control rather than total eradication. Crop rotation helps by not letting pests that feed on any particular type of plant to establish a strong presence. Another strategy may be to grow plants which encourage the presence of “pest predators” or growing companion plants that repel insects. These are a few of the many natural environmental control mechanisms available to the organic gardener.

Weed control could be done for instance through use of mulches and natural ground cover.

The major criticism of organic gardening is that it is not as efficient or productive as chemical based gardening. It is suggested that yields can be significantly increased by use of artificial cultivation methods. However, the organic gardener would argue that the increased yields come at an unacceptably high price. A price expressed in terms of the new and increased health risks associated with exposure to dangerous chemicals. Chemicals which find their way into all manner of products and foods as result of contamination of waterways etc. Pollution and degradation of the environment as a result is the other price we pay for non-organic gardening.

Since the beginning of the 1990’s interest in organic agriculture and gardening has been increasing in leaps and bounds and shows no signs of abating. Although organic gardening is not likely to take over in the short run it is obviously here to stay.

The author Chris Adams is the manager of the container gardening and organic gardening website where you can a free copy of a ‘container gardening secrets ebook’ and other gardening supplies and resources at really low prices.

Gardening

landscaping

By Jaden Sloan

 Conventional farming makes people plant crops over a field of land, give it water to help it grow then harvest it when the time comes. This was practiced for many years until the demand for food increased which made scientists rely on other techniques to increase production.

Such practices made the use of pesticides and herbicides, fertilizers, contaminated sewage sludge and irradiation. Since these methods are harmful to the health, people have gone back to organic farming that does not use any of these methods.

Technology has found another way to increase crop production without jeopardizing the health of people and the environment. This can be done by hydroponics farming.

Plants need water to survive but this is only one ingredient. The other and most important are the nutrients. Scientists have discovered that it is only when this is diffused into the water system that the roots of the crops consume it making it grow.

By doing this in a controlled environment such as a greenhouse, the nutrients can already be mixed into the water system allowing the crops produce more yields which is what hydroponics gardening is all about.

To prove how effective it is, scientists made a comparative study on the growth of tomatoes. One batch used soil and was able to produce ten tons. The other batch used hydroponics and was able to produce 60 tons. This shows that this method can produce 6 times more than traditional farming.

Almost any type of plant that is grown using this manner will product high yields. Though some crops will be able to produce more than others, the length of time to harvest it is still faster than the old method which gives a faster turn around for farmers.

The farmer does not have to check and pull out weeds, till the land or look for diseases that normally happen during soil cultivation since there are none. Some people might think that this will consume a lot of water but it doesn’t since it is reused which also consumers less than traditional farming.

The problem with a controlled environment is that the plants may not be able to get the proper sunlight and carbon dioxide that to help it grow. This problem can be addressed by installing lights and infusing artificial CO2 into the air.

There are other ways to cultivate crops while inside a green house. One method is called deep water culture. The roots of the plants are raised in the air and a pump releases air out to make it grow. This is ideal for grapes and other crops that grow in this manner.

Another method very similar to deep water culture is aeroponics. The plants are also raised in the air and nutrients here are mixed in the form fog or mist which also reaches the crops so it could grow.

In flood and drain, a tray is used to hold the nutrients. The roots of the plants are held by foam chips or clay pebbles then at certain times of the day, this is flooded so that the plants are able to receive the proper requirements for it to grow. Afterwards, this drains itself out.

Plants can also be grown using films. This technique is called nutrient film technique where light proof plastic is used. This flow along the passage way giving the crops the essentials it needs to grow.

There are many techniques to employ hydroponics in the farm or in the household. The person just has to check what is needed and to think about what plants to grow.

One of the nicest things about hydroponics gardening is that it does not take a lot of space. This allows the person to set up a greenhouse in the backyard. The only things needed are water in containers, tubes to reuse the water consumed by the plants, strong lamps to be used as artificial light and some organic nutrients that are available at the gardening store.

Hydroponics has been around for almost 30 years. By getting some information and the proper materials, the person can soon plant vegetables and fruits instead of buying it at the local grocery or supermarket.

Read about carnation flowers and poppy seed tea at the Plants And Flowers website.

Gardening

landscaping ideas

By Jaden Sloan

 Container gardening is a wonderful idea whether you have a garden bed or not. It’s perfect for apartments or small areas, but can also really enhance your patio. Here are some tips on gardening in containers.

Every Garden can benefit from the addition of container gardens. They add interst and variety, plus are easily moved around. If you live in an apartment or have a small area to work with this may be the only solution for you.

Your Container

Your container can be pretty much anything and is only limited to your imagination. Just make sure there is adequate drainage for your plants. I love old buckets, discarded kitchen pots and baskets for a rustic feel. For a formal garden choose a more traditional container. Regardless of your choice of container, make sure it’s not to big or too small for your planting.

Your Soil

Do not use garden soil for your container plants. Garden soil is too heavy, dries out too quickly and will not provide the needed nutrients your container plants need. You can find good potting soil at your local garden center or you can mix your own. To mix your own make sure you include soil, peat, sand and a slow release fertilizer.

Maintenance

You’ll need to pay close attention to your container grown plants — much more than plants in your garden beds. The soil will dry out more quickly so frequent watering it a must. You’ll also need to fertilize more frequently. Water in the morning or evening whenever the soil is almost dry and water thoroughly until water comes out the bottom drainage holes.

One thing I really love about container gardening is mobility. If a particular grouping doesn”t work you can simply move your pots and change your garden design.

Have fun, experiment and be creative!

Read about daffodil flower and planting daffodils at the Plants And Flowers website.

Gardening

landscaping stones

By Jaden Sloan

 There is nothing quite as welcome as those beautiful spring flowers that seem to emerge from nowhere to welcome the arrival of spring. Bulb type flowers are really unique plants, because they spend most of their days resting quietly beneath the surface of the soil. Then right on schedule, up they come, full of bloom and vigor, and then almost as fast as they came, they go. Except for the green leafy part of the plant that tends to linger longer than we would like them to. Despite their short bloom time and unattractive foliage after the blooms are gone, they are still a wonderful addition to any landscape. But how should you care for them? First let’s talk about how to use them in your landscape. Flowers of all kinds are best when planted in groupings. Many people buy 25 or 50 bulbs and just go around the yard planting helter skelter. That’s fine if that’s what you want, but when planted that way they tend to blend in with the landscape and really don’t show up well at all. When you plant them in large groups they are a breathtaking showpiece.

In the early spring start thinking about where you would like to create a bed for flower bulbs. Prepare the bed by raising it with good rich topsoil, and if at all possible add some well composted cow manure. Do this in the spring while you are in the gardening mood; you may not be in the fall. Over the summer fill the bed with annual flowers to keep the weeds down, and to pretty up your yard for the summer. Come fall all you have to do is pull out the annuals and plant your bulbs to the depth recommended on the package.

If you think you could have a problem with squirrels digging up the bulbs and eating them, you can also wrap the bulbs in steel wool, leaving just the tip of the bulb exposed so it can grow out of the little wire cage you’ve created. Or you can just plant the bulbs and then cover the bed with chicken wire or plastic fencing until the bulbs start to grow in the spring.

When the bulbs come up in the spring and start blooming, you should clip off the blooms as they start to wither. This keeps the bulb from producing seeds, which requires a lot of energy, and you want the bulb to use all of its available energy to store food in preparation for the bulb’s resting period. Once the bulbs are completely done blooming you don’t want to cut off the tops until they are withered and die back. The million dollar question is how to treat the tops until that happens.

Many people bend them over and slip a rubber band over them, or in the case of bulbs like Daffodils tie them with one of the long leaves. This seems to work because it is a very common practice among many experienced gardeners. However, Mike is about to rain on the parade.

I strongly disagree with this theory because back about 6th grade we learned about photosynthesis in science class. To recap what we learned, and without going into the boring details, photosynthesis is the process of the plant using the sun’s rays to make food for itself. The rays from the sun are absorbed by the foliage and the food making process begins. In the case of a flower bulb this food is transported to the bulb beneath the ground and stored for later use.

So basically the leaves of the plant are like little solar panels. Their job is to absorb the rays from the sun to begin the process known as photosynthesis. If we fold them over and handcuff them with their hands behind their back, they are not going to be able to do their job. It’s like throwing a tarpaulin over 80% of a solar panel.

In order for the leaves to absorb the rays from the sun, the surface of the foliage has to be exposed to the sun. On top of that, when you bend the foliage over, you are restricting the flow of nutrients to the bulb. The veins in the leaves and the stem are a lot like our blood vessels. If you restrict them the flow stops.

To learn about african violet care and sage herb, visit the Plants And Flowers website.

Gardening

garden landscaping

By Jasper Sayer

 Are you the parent of a young child who you would like to eat healthy? If you are, you may be interested in introducing your child to organic foods. Unfortunately, for some parents this can be easier said than done. If you are finding it difficult to introduce your toddler or preschooler to organic foods, please continue reading on, as a number of helpful tips are highlighted below.

One way to help your child get use to eating organic foods is to not tell them that they are doing so right away. Of course, you want your child to know that they are eating healthy and it is important for children to know what organic foods are, but you may want to wait until your child has already decided that they like eating organic, which they should. This is important for toddlers and preschoolers, as some may be turned away by the word “organic,” especially if it is a new word for them. There is really no reason why you need to tell your child that they are eating organic soap, when you could just simply say soup.

Introducing your child, especially young children, to organic foods slowly is another great approach. If you are making the switch to organic foods, consider making it a transition, instead of a traditional switch. Although your child will likely not be able to tell the difference in organic foods, some children are able to do so. This is where there are benefits to slowly introducing a child to organic foods. For example, start with snacks or one meal a day, such as an organic breakfast.

Speaking of snacks, they are a great way to get your child excited about eating organic foods. Did you know that there are a number of organic snacks, many of which are designed for toddlers and preschoolers? There are. For example, Earth’s Best Organic offers fruit snack bars, organic cookies, and organic crackers. Also, most of their products for toddlers and preschoolers come with Sesame Street themes. Snacks are a positive and fun way to introduce young children to organic foods. Also, consider offering your child a reward for eating all or most of their organic meals. This is great for picky eaters. What you can do is offer an organic cookie or an organic cracker as a reward if all or most of your child’s lunch or dinner is eaten.

Another easy, yet fun way to get your child excited about eating organically is by letting them help you shop. This is ideal if you will be doing your shopping locally. When using this approach, it is best to visit a specialty organic food store, as no matter what your child chooses it should be healthy and natural. For smaller children, point them in the right direction. For example, set your child in the cereal aisle if you are looking to buy cereal, and so forth.

The above mentioned ways are just a few of the many ways that you can successfully introduce your child to organic foods. These approaches are ideal for those at the toddler and preschool levels. Many find that this is the age range that is most difficult to make the switch to organic foods, as many children at this age dislike change, especially where their food is concerned.

Read about vegetarian nutrition and vegetarian health at the Vegetarian Facts website.

Gardening

landscaping ideas

By Jude Simons

 As a staple of life our need to eat has developed from a basic form of simply feeding our bodies with the fuel it requires, to a complicated art of presentation and taste combined with our intrinsic need to experiment with everything we see, touch, smell and of course taste.

The ever-increasing divergence of foods that is now available to us at our local stores and eating-places only help to confuse and tantalise us into new culinary experiments and delights.

From the sandwich shop to the award winning restaurants, we can always find a place that prepares and sells the food we want at a reasonable price, although cooking or preparing food for ourselves may be a cheaper or healthier option it never seems to taste the same as our local restaurant. Most people that have cooked their own versions and varieties of local, Chinese, Indian or other international cuisine believes it does not have the same taste or texture and will often opt for a more authentic meal from their local restaurant or take away.

Cooking at home has become less of a choice and more of a chore. With the large amount of ready meals available, the option of spending time in the kitchen becomes less and less appealing. People are spending more of their time and money in the world of fast foods and restaurants. Although some believe this to be a bad thing it has fuelled a new market in available meals that are only a phone call away. As long as the health and hygiene departments vet these establishments and our choices are varied, of good quality and healthy their use can be a good alternative to cooking our own meals.

With the onset of fast foods and the quick cook and ready cooked meals available along with the ever increasing choice of world cuisine, the enjoyment of these different foods have opened new options to the consumer within the food market.

In today’s busy world where leisure time has become more and more important, the less time spent working and preparing to eat allows us more available time for our pursuit of our leisure activities.

People who do not have the ability, time or will to cook at home now only have to pick up the phone book or click on the Internet in order to find their local restaurant or fast food retailer that will be more than happy to deliver the freshly prepared hot food ready to eat straight to their door with minimum fuss.

Although the fast food retailers compete with each other fiercely, using their special offers and cheaper and healthier alternatives to entice us to their premises, the main stay of traditional restaurants still hold an important part in our lives.

Even though these places are vastly out numbered by the fast food industry, we still enjoy sitting down in the nice comfortable and pleasant surroundings of a restaurant and dining on good quality food at a leisurely pace, leaving behind the hustle and bustle of daily life and the fast food rush.

Traditional restaurants will always offer us that pleasant alternative to eating at home, ordering take out from our local fast food dispenser or visiting their drive through or small busy caf style restaurants. Not forgetting those special occasions or romantic rendezvous, these still command the need for that quiet stylish quality restaurant where we know that the food wine and service will always be excellent and the experience wonderful and charming.

View peach pictures and pictures of peaches at the Peach Facts site.

Gardening

landscaping stones

By Jaden Sloan

 If you want to protect your fruit tree from pests during the summer, this is almost impossible to accomplish without the use of pesticides or chemicals. This might scare some people into thinking that the actual fruits will contain traces of the chemicals. If you do things correctly, you can get rid of all the pests and not infect the actual tree. If you’re going to be spraying chemicals, you most likely will be using either a handheld pump or a hose-end sprayer.

If you’re using the pump sprayers, you will be able to more accurately determine the mixing of the chemicals. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to spray it very far. Usually it won’t reach the tops of trees. This can be achieved with the hose end sprayers, but getting the correct mix of chemicals is quite a challenge. It all depends on your water pressure to get the correct mixture of chemicals, but water pressure is not constant. One day it might be lower, in which case your chemical content would be higher. The types of materials you buy for hose application are generally in an extremely strong form. They need to be severely diluted before they are weak enough to apply.

When you are mixing the chemicals for spraying, you need to follow the directions exactly. You are dealing with dangerous chemicals, so its best to do exactly what the professionals recommend and wear the proper protective gear. When you’re dealing with chemicals like this, you should always wear rubber gloves. Use the exact portions indicated on the label. Estimation won’t work in this case, and you could end up killing your tree or not killing any bugs. You should usually start by putting in the proper amount of pesticide, and then top it off with all the water.

Now comes the spraying. The goal is to spray the same amount over all the areas. You still don’t want to spray so much that enough builds up to drip off of the leaves. Usually you will want to get a ladder so that you can get within spraying distance of all the portions of the tree. Apply the pesticide in even, full sweeps as to hit every piece. Never go over the same part twice, because that is when you start to drip.

If you’re dealing with a large and well developed tree, you should stand on a ladder under the base of the trunk. Spray all segments from the inside towards the outside. After you are done spraying the outer canopy, you’re ready to get out from under there and work on the rest. Once you are done cleaning, be sure to fully and thoroughly clean off every bit of equipment you used, including your clothes. Don’t include the clothes you wore while spraying in the rest of your family’s laundry.

While you’re spraying for pests, the main thing to keep in mind is to avoid dripping onto the ground. When this happens, the pesticides will be absorbed by the roots of the tree and be transported to the actual fruits on the trees. As long as the pesticides stay on the outside and you wash your fruit thoroughly before you eat it, you will have nothing to worry about as far as being poisoned goes.

For tips on poppy seed tea and poppy plant, visit the Plants And Flowers website.

Gardening

landscape

By suegold

 The first thing in creating a garden is the selection of a spot. Without a choice, it means simply doing the best one can with conditions. With space limited it resolves itself into no garden, or a box garden. Surely a box garden is better than nothing at all.

But we will now suppose that it is possible to really choose just the right site for the garden. What shall be chosen? The greatest determining factor is the sun. No one would have a north corner, unless it were absolutely forced upon him; because, while north corners do for ferns, certain wild flowers, and begonias, they are of little use as spots for a general garden.

If possible, choose the ideal spot a southern exposure. Here the sun lies warm all day long. When the garden is thus located the rows of vegetables and flowers should run north and south. Thus placed, the plants receive the sun’s rays all the morning on the eastern side, and all the afternoon on the western side. One ought not to have any lopsided plants with such an arrangement.

Suppose the garden faces southeast. In this case the western sun is out of the problem. In order to get the best distribution of sunlight run the rows northwest and southeast.

The idea is to get the most sunlight as evenly distributed as possible for the longest period of time. From the lopsided growth of window plants it is easy enough to see the effect on plants of poorly distributed light. So if you use a little diagram remembering that you wish the sun to shine part of the day on one side of the plants and part on the other, you can juggle out any situation. The southern exposure gives the ideal case because the sun gives half time nearly to each side. A northern exposure may mean an almost entire cut-off from sunlight; while northeastern and southwestern places always get uneven distribution of sun’s rays, no matter how carefully this is planned.

The garden, if possible, should be planned out on paper. The plan is a great help when the real planting time comes. It saves time and unnecessary buying of seed.

New garden spots are likely to be found in two conditions: they are covered either with turf or with rubbish. In large garden areas the ground is ploughed and the sod turned under; but in small gardens remove the sod. How to take off the sod in the best manner is the next question. Stake and line off the garden spot. The line gives an accurate and straight course to follow. Cut the edges with the spade all along the line. If the area is a small one, say four feet by eighteen or twenty, this is an easy matter. Such a narrow strip may be marked off like a checkerboard, the sod cut through with the spade, and easily removed. This could be done in two long strips cut lengthwise of the strip. When the turf is cut through, roll it right up like a roll of carpet.

But suppose the garden plot is large. Then divide this up into strips a foot wide and take off the sod as before. What shall be done with the sod? Do not throw it away for it is full of richness, although not quite in available form. So pack the sod grass side down one square on another. Leave it to rot and to weather. When rotted it makes a fine fertilizer. Such a pile of rotting vegetable matter is called a compost pile. All through the summer add any old green vegetable matter to this. In the fall put the autumn leaves on. A fine lot of goodness is being fixed for another season.

Even when the garden is large enough to plough, I would pick out the largest pieces of sod rather than have them turned under. Go over the ploughed space, pick out the pieces of sod, shake them well and pack them up in a compost heap.

Mere spading of the ground is not sufficient. The soil is still left in lumps. Always as one spades one should break up the big lumps. But even so the ground is in no shape for planting. Ground must be very fine indeed to plant in, because seeds can get very close indeed to fine particles of soil. But the large lumps leave large spaces which no tiny root hair can penetrate. A seed is left stranded in a perfect waste when planted in chunks of soil. A baby surrounded with great pieces of beefsteak would starve. A seed among large lumps of soil is in a similar situation. The spade never can do this work of pulverizing soil. But the rake can. That’s the value of the rake. It is a great lump breaker, but will not do for large lumps. If the soil still has large lumps in it take the hoe.

Many people handle the hoe awkwardly. The chief work of this implement is to rid the soil of weeds and stir up the top surface. It is used in summer to form that mulch of dust so valuable in retaining moisture in the soil. I often see people as if they were going to chop into atoms everything around. Hoeing should never be such vigorous exercise as that. Spading is vigorous, hard work, but not hoeing and raking.

After lumps are broken use the rake to make the bed fine and smooth. Now the great piece of work is done.

The author Chris Adams is the manager of the container gardening and organic gardening website where you can a free copy of a ‘container gardening secrets ebook’ and other gardening supplies and resources at really low prices.

Gardening

landscaping ideas

By Joey Simmons

 More and more people are maintaining a greenhouse in their own yards. Most have found it a fulfilling endeavor, not just to grow plants, but to grow plants well. Thus if this interests you, then it is best to learn the basics of a greenhouse.

What Is a Greenhouse?

The greenhouse serves as the home for young and tender plants, especially those grown out of their normal season. This is mainly designed to create a proper environment for the plant and for cultivation of the same.

It is usually made with plastic or glass-paned sloping roof and walls. This way, the temperature, light and even moisture can be easily controlled to give a balanced condition encouraging to the plants.

The greenhouse is best suited to grow plants of all kinds. The usual varieties are cacti, orchids and citrus trees. This is also a very ideal venue to implement plant research.

Ideally, the natural sunlight is sufficient to supply the requirements of plants, especially in temperate regions. However, when winter comes it is necessary to supply the plants with heat and light to encourage growth. The heat usually comes from steam or hot-air circulating system.

During the summer, the panes would be covered to reduce the light intensity. The structure of the greenhouse will allow heat to be easily reduced. This is done by opening the ventilators or whitewashing the panes.

Humidity is maintained by the water supplied in the soils. When the greenhouse needs greater humidity, the floors are usually sprayed with water. For pot-grown plants, like the orchids, they are set on racks with moistened residues.

There are many aspects that make a productive greenhouse. These generally depend on the supplies installed in the greenhouse. To know what these supplies are, just read on.

What Are the Important Greenhouse Supplies?

To have a really successful greenhouse, it is important to have the proper supplies and accessories to put in it. Listed below are several important greenhouse supplies.

1. Ventilation

This is the most important supply you can not miss out on your greenhouse. It serves to purposes, to provide carbon dioxide to plants and to cool the greenhouse. Without this, the greenhouse might just be simply your furnace.

The greenhouse is really storing the heat coming from the sun during the day, creating a warmer environment inside the greenhouse compared to the outside. Thus the ventilation fan system will be helpful in bringing in fresh and cooler air inside.

2. Heating System

The heating source is important too, especially during the nighttime and for the cold seasons to come. Generally, the heat supplied by the sun is stored by the greenhouse. At night, the heating systems will serve as the heat source.

This can be fueled by wood, gas, oil or even electricity. The choice simply depends on whatever type of fuel can be available in the locality as well the costs.

Some make use of electric heaters for smaller greenhouses. This should be treated with extra caution. It is not supposed to be exposed or be in contact to water to avoid any electric shock.

3. Greenhouse Thermometers

It is not sufficient that you provide temperature in the greenhouse. You have to be able to control and maintain the proper temperature. The only way you can do this is to get the min/max thermometer. This records the high and low temperature of the greenhouse.

What is at stake is the valuable data that can help you determine if the heating or cooling equipment is working correctly.

4. Fog System and Watering System

Mist and fog systems are useful in any serious greenhouse. It helps in maintaining the humidity level. A good amount of humidity can also help reduce the need for water supply.

When it comes to watering the plants, it will have to depend on the type of the plant. The regular wand can be used on the average grown plants. The drip system is best for watering larger plants. This is also a good way to save on water.

For seedlings, it is ideal to use a watering system with small sprinklers, or even misting systems. Using the regular hose or wand will simply disturb the soil.

5. Lighting

Lighting is also very important for growing plants. This will serve as the artificial sun, especially when the season does not give much heat, light and sun.

6. Shading

Shades come in handy during the hot summer. They block a certain part of the rays of the sun from entering the greenhouse. This is to avoid too much heat and sunlight on a dry season. The shade is also very helpful to some plants that grow best when screened from the direct sun.

7. Flooring and Benches

The flooring details will be for the benefit of the greenhouse owner. It can be aesthetic as it polishes the image and ambience of the greenhouse. It can also be functional. It is best to use non-skid surface so there will be not much worry during watering time. It should be easy to clean and must be able to endure the moisture in the environment.

Benches can also provide comfort. When attending to the plants, it would not hurt to do it while sitting. It is also a good place to observe and enjoy the fruits of your labor. This can also serve shading purposes to plants located beneath or just behind it.

With these important details at hand, you can easily come up with a master plan to get that perfect greenhouse for your plants.

To read about hydrangea pruning and growing hydrangeas, visit the Plants And Flowers site.

Gardening

landscape

By Jaden Sloan

 Catch that bouquet of flowers! It is always a thrill lining up in a pool of bachelorettes swarming to catch those bouquets thrown by the bride. Just being one of the audiences can be just as exciting. Tradition says that anyone who catches the bouquet would be the next bride.

Flowers play an integral part in any wedding ceremonies. They have been a symbolism of new hope and a good future ahead. The bride and the groom would surely feel like heaven with flowers blooming everywhere on their reception. More than a decoration, wedding flowers have now been a tradition. A wedding will be quite incomplete without these fragrant gifts of mother earth.

Hiring a wedding coordinator or a florist so that your bouquet will be professionally done can be considered as an option. But if you are on a strict budget, and have some creativity hidden deep inside you, there is no hurt in making them on your own. They can still look elegant and stunning as long as you know what color and kind of flowers to use. The tips below will help you in customizing your wedding flowers.

Choosing flowers

In picking what flowers to choose, keep in mind the theme and the color premise of the wedding. It should match and blend well with the entourage and the bride’s gown too. Another point to consider is the availability of the flower type. Depending on the season, you can order the freshest, the most available and the cheapest kind of flowers. Flowers like baby’s breath, orchids, gardenia and roses are readily obtainable no matter what time of the year.

Preparing the materials

The bouquet that the bride carries on the aisle is where the flowers play a major part. It is very easy to create your own. First, gather up your materials. You will need about three dozens of your chosen flower, a sharp scissor, florist tape, and ribbons.

Making a bouquet

It is advisable to order your flowers on the day of the event and get the freshest pick possible. Start by choosing three roses that you would use as the centerpiece of your arrangement. Puff air into the center of each flower to give it a fuller look. Put them together, creating a triangle. Stack each flower unevenly; each one should have a slightly different level of height. This technique adds dimension to your arrangement. Just continue adding up two to three flowers at a time until they form a dome. After which, you can tie them up with a florist tape at least 8 inches below the flowers.

Be sure to ask some help taping the stem, you might have a difficulty holding all 36 flowers and tying them together at the same time. Finally finish out with a suitable ribbon that matches the color of the flowers and your wedding dress. You can tie them up in a bow. Be sure to cover all the florist tape with ribbons. Carefully cut the excess stems with a sharp scissor approximately an inch below the ribbon. Place the bouquet on a plastic container or a vase with a quarter inch of water or you can store them inside a fridge covered by a loose plastic bag. Finally, spray the flowers with water avoiding the ribbons.

That’s it! That’s how you can customize your bouquet. Remember to check your arrangement in a mirror with you holding it so you would picture how it would look like to someone else’s view. Wedding flowers can still look stunning without sacrificing your budget. Now you are ready to walk down the aisle with that pretty and personalized bouquet of flowers in your hand.

Learn about mimosa trees and periwinkle plant at the Plants And Flowers site.

Gardening

landscaping

By Jaden Sloan

 Thorough planning and preparation is essential before starting your greenhouse project. Putting up a greenhouse need not be time-consuming or expensive. Your greenhouse design will very much depend on your home’s home architecture, space and plants that you want to grow, cost and available location. Make sure that your greenhouse should provide the environment suitable for your chosen type of plants.

Location

Your greenhouse must be built in a site where it will get the full and concentrated sunlight.

Your best option is the “southeast side” of your house or shade of trees. All day sunlight is best, though also consider the morning sunlight coming from the east side because this is adequate for most plants, as it permits the course food production to start early so then progress is maximized.

The location on the east captures most of the November up to February sunshine.

Deciduous trees like oak and maple can shade the greenhouse effectively from the strong late afternoon sun during the summer but they must not shade or cover your greenhouse during the morning. These trees likewise permit maximum sun exposure during the winter due to the shedding of their foliage during fall.

Your greenhouse must not be located beside trees having leaves all year as it will block the winter sun. You must maximize greenhouse exposure to winter sun especially if your greenhouse will be used year-round.

Another necessity for the location of your greenhouse is good drainage. When needed, construct your greenhouse higher than the ground so as irrigation and rainwater will easily drain away.

Light that is required by certain types of plants that you will grow, water, electricity, heat and protection from strong wind are other factors that should also be considered.

Also, you need to set up a workplace and an area for storage of your supplies in your greenhouse.

Here is a simple and easy to construct greenhouse:

Materials:

5 pieces of 20 foot each “of 5/8 inch” rebar, cut into 1/3’s - 6 foot in length.

7 pieces of 20 foot schedule” 40 PVC” drilled with a hole size 3/16 to 1/4 inch “dead center” at 10 feet.

84 feet that is “cut into 4 foot lengths” of “1/2 schedule 40 PVC”

80 pieces size 2X4 wood (treated).

4 pieces fence posts, 8 foot in length (treated).

Size “40X24 fee” UV “polyethylene”, stabilized

60 pieces 2 1/2 inches fence staples

1. Begin by extending a thin rope or string where the “two long sides” of your greenhouse should be. Then pound the 6 foot rebar in, each with a distance of 4 feet away from each other, in a “straight line” and allowing 48 inches to protrude from the soil or ground.

2. Nail the 2X6 runner on to the “rebar stakes”. This will provide you with something so as to nail on the polyethylene later. You may use a “60 2 1/2 inch fence staples”.

3. Slide in the PVC pieces (20 inch) over the “rebar stakes”, making certain that no sharp points are exposed, such as rebar, wire ends, rough pipes, etc.

4. Put the PVC pieces (20 foot) on the “rebar stakes”. You need to have somebody do “one side” as you also do the “other side” carefully and slightly at each time. Make sure that you drilled holes “parallel to the ground”. 5. Slide the wire all through the PVC holes and through the 8 PVC (4foot) pieces “along the roof”.

6. So as the “ribs” will not shift horizontally, you need to wire together the 4 foot PVC pipe lengths with either baling or copper wire. Make certain that the wire is wrapped so that the PVC pipe is forced inward.

7. Construct now the “two end walls” and the doors. Use vertical posts (4X4) 10 foot length and buried 3 or 4 feet for the doorway frame. Make certain that the end walls are not floppy and must stay vertically so that the PVC will not separate. Your door must be very tight so that the wind will not be able to inflate the greenhouse.

8. Drive some nails into the post’s base horizontally of the posts and submerge them to the ground.

9. With somebody’s help, and each person on each side holding the plastic, slide it over the rib cage and then attach the ends by wrapping the plastic’s end around lath pieces then “nail the lath” to the “end walls” and also along the foundation.

10. Be creative and add a few of your personal touches.

All done! Have fun in your greenhouse!

Find tips about rosy periwinkle and periwinkle plant at the Plants And Flowers website.

Gardening

garden landscaping